Pumpkin Cheesecake
Despite my adoration for pumpkin, I just don't like pumpkin pie. I've tried to like it, but it's one of the few pumpkin-based desserts I can't seem to ever enjoy. Cheesecake is another matter. I have always loved cheesecake. Well, except for when I've had horribly-made cheesecake. Fortunately, those have been few and far between. I have never made cheesecake myself, however, so I was a little concerned that I would end up adding my first attempt to the Horribly-Made Cheesecakes I've Eaten category.
Enter Cook's Illustrated.
I buy Cook's Illustrated Holiday Entertaining special issues every year, and they have always been my go-to guides for classic holiday recipes. Most of the tips and tricks I've learned have been gleaned from their pages. And their meticulously researched and tested recipes are just what this detail-obsessed gal loves. The author of the article for this pumpkin cheesecake recipe made 30 cheesecakes before she felt that she had the perfect recipe.
Despite the careful attention to detail that each recipe is given, every recipe I've tried from Cook's Illustrated has always been straightforward and uncomplicated. There are no crazy techniques or pretentious preparations. It's just the way I like my recipes.
As is customary when I read a Cook's Illustrated recipe, I also learned a new tip: how to remove excess moisture from canned pumpkin. You simply spread out the pumpkin onto a baking sheet lined with a triple layer of paper towels and then place another three layers of paper towels on top and set it aside for a few minutes. The towels wick up the extra moisture and the pumpkin peels right off when you are ready to use it. This is one kitchen trick I won't forget.
Making this cheesecake does take some time, but it's time well-spent and a delicious alternative to pumpkin pie. The classic pumpkin pie spices of cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves and allspice are added to both the cream cheese mixture and the graham cracker crust, but in quantities conservative enough so that they complement the subtle pumpkin flavor rather than overwhelm it. The crust is pre-baked to ensure that it stays crisp and the cheesecake is baked in a gentle water bath to keep the texture silky and creamy. My only complaint about this recipe is that as my cheesecake was cooling, a crack appeared smack in the center of my otherwise lovely creation, but it isn't anything that some Cinnamon Whipped Cream can't fix. Besides, these minor imperfections are what homemade cooking is all about, right? And, after sneaking a taste, this is a recipe that has decidedly earned a place in my Recipes I Will Most Definitely Make Again category.
Pumpkin Cheesecake
Adapted from Cook's Illustrated Fall Entertaining {Fall 2008}
For the crust:
9 whole graham crackers, broken into large pieces
3 T. granulated sugar
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ground cloves
6 T. unsalted butter, meltedFor the filling:
1 1/3 cups granulated sugar
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp. ground cloves
1/4 tsp. ground allspice
1/2 tsp. salt
1 15-ounce can pumpkin puree {not pumpkin pie filling}
1 1/2 pounds {2 1/2 blocks} plain cream cheese, room temperature, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 T. vanilla extract
1 T. freshly-squeezed lemon juice
5 large eggs, room temperature
1 cup heavy cream
To make the crust:Adjust an oven rack to the lower-middle position and preheat oven to 325 degrees. Spray the sides and bottom of a 9-inch springform pan evenly with cooking spray and wrap the outside of the springform pan with a double layer of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Set aside.
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, pulse the graham crackers, sugar and all of the spices until finely and evenly ground. Transfer the crumbs to a bowl, pour in the melted butter, and mix gently with a fork until the crumbs are evenly moistened. Transfer the crumbs to the springform pan and spread out evenly over the bottom using a spatula or your hands. Use a spoon to push and smooth some of the crumbs to the edges of the pan. Bake until fragrant and lightly browned, 15-20 minutes.
When the crust is finished baking, remove it to a cooling rack and allow to cool completely.
To make the filling:Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil in a pot. Keep on a gentle simmer.
Line a baking sheet with a triple layer of paper towels and spread out the canned pumpkin in an even layer. Cover with another triple layer of paper towels and set aside for a few minutes to let the towels absorb the excess moisture.
In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, spices and salt and set aside.
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese on medium speed unti fluffy, about 1 minute. Add about 1/3 of the sugar-spice mixture and mix well to combine, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add the remaining sugar-spice mixture in 2 additions, mixing well and scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition. Add in the pumpkin, vanilla extract and lemon juice and beat at medium speed until combined. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.
Next, add 3 of the eggs and beat at medium-low speed until they have been completely incorporated. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining 2 eggs and mix well to incorporate, scraping down the sides of the bowl. Add in the heavy cream and mix well over low speed. Remove the paddle attachment and give the mixture a final stir using a rubber spatula.
Transfer the cream cheese mixture into the springform pan with the cooled crust. Place the filled springform pan in a roasting pan and set the roasting pan on the oven rack. Carefully pour the simmering water into the roasting pan and fill it until the water reaches halfway up the sides of the springform pan.
Bake the cheesecake until the center of the cake jiggles slightly when shaken and the center of the cake registers between 145-150 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, about 1 1/2 hours {start checking for doneness around 1 1/4 hours into the baking time}.
When the cheesecake is cooked, remove the roasting pan from the oven and set on a cooling rack. Leave the cheesecake in the water bath for about 45 minutes.
Next, remove the springform pan from the water bath and remove the foil wrapping. Run a thin paring knife around the edges of the cheesecake and carefully remove the springform ring. Place the cheesecake on a cooling rack and allow it to cool completely at room temperature, about 3 hours. Once it has finished cooling, wrap the cheesecake in plastic wrap {not too tightly} and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.
To serve, unwrap the cheesecake and allow it to sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes before slicing. For neat slices, dip the knife into a glass of hot water and wipe off with a paper towel after each cut.
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Yum! I absolutely love pumpkin cheesecake! And love Cook's Illustrated, too. I just posted my version of pumpkin cheesecake, too ... I'll have to give your's a try!